Pamela MacNaughtanLast Updated on October 29, 2024 by Pamela MacNaughtan
Gordita de maïs, birria, cochinita pibil, chicharrón are some of the words found on the October menu at Verre Pickl’. Serving modern Mexican, French, and local cuisine using French techniques and a blend of Mexican and Quebec flavours, this micro-restaurant is one of the best in Quebec City.
“We like to take care of our clients like they were part of our extended family. It’s a small intimate space where Jérôme and I will cook for you, serve you, and share our passion for both cultures and the people behind the food or wine that is being served”, says Alexandra Romero, co-chef and co-owner of Verre Pickl’.
When co-chef and co-owner Jérôme Gilpin first leased the space in 2020 he planned to open a sandwich shop, with pickles being a featured ingredient – hence the restaurant’s name. He and Alexandra, however, saw the potential for more.
The small space would only allow for four tables with a maximum of eight seats, so they decided on a shared table, allowing for 12-16 seats. Next up was the menu, which featured a mix of French, local, and modern Mexican cuisine. Alexandra, who came to Quebec from Guadalajara, Mexico 10 years ago, was nervous at first.
Would Quebecers like Mexican cuisine beyond the North Americanized version which focuses mostly on tacos, quesadillas, and burritos?
The answer is a resounding ‘yes‘. Today, the 5-course tasting menu at Verre Pickl’, which changes monthly, highlights authentic Mexican flavours that are not found elsewhere in Quebec City.
The Best Modern Mexican Cuisine in Quebec City
Before moving to Quebec City at the end of 2016, I spent a lot of time in Mexico, and as chef Jérôme explains the evening’s menu my mouth waters. Sipping a Mezcal cocktail made with mango, lime, and Guajillo (a chili common in Mexican cuisine), I meet the people sitting around me, all of them food lovers from the Eastern United States.
Our first course is Gordita de maïs aux champignons and salsa roja. A small corn cake that’s fried, baked, or grilled (then filled), Gorditas are a popular street snack in Mexico. At Verre Pickl’ we’re served a gordita stuffed with mushrooms: oyster, portobello, shiitake, and morels braised in tequila; and served with salsa roja made with local tomatoes. A lovely introduction to a night of delicious food.
Pétoncle on crème de chicharron with pico de gallo is served next. It’s one of the stars of the evening; two seared scallops from Îles de la Madeleine served on a creamy chicharrón sauce (a blend of chicharrón, tomatoes, and onion), and garnished with small pieces of chicharrón.
The chicharrón is fried pork rinds, airy, a little salty, and a guilty pleasure snack I miss from time to time. It’s popular in Mexico and the Philipines – in traditional Quebec cuisine, fried pork rinds are more dense and crunchy and called oreilles de crisse.
The chicharrón crème is exceptional, and I wish I was smart enough to eat slower and linger on the flavours of the soft scallops and the velvety sauce. A favourite of several people at the table.
The ravioli à la birria with agneau (lamb birria ravioli) is a dish I was most excited about when I peeked at the menu on Verre Pickl’s Instagram (they post each month’s menu).
Birria is something I’ve missed from my days living in Mexico. Birria is a traditional food from the Jalisco region, and when I’d go to Puerto Vallarta, I would devour birria street tacos for breakfast. It’s traditionally made with lamb, beef, or goat that is braised and cooked low and slow with tomatoes, onion, chilies, garlic, and spices.
The lamb birria ravioli at Verre Pickl’ is served with a creamy sauce made by reducing the broth of the birria, then adding heavy cream, onion, and fresh cilantro. Audible moans escaped from more than one mouth, and I joked with chef Jérôme about wanting to lick the bowl clean.
My adoration for the talents of chefs Alexandra and Jéôme continues with the fourth course, porcelet cochinita pibil, courage butternut a l’habanero (piglet cochinita pibil with butternut squash and habanero).
Traditionally, cochinita pibil is a suckling pig rubbed with an achiote paste, sour orange, and spices, and cooked whole underground. This process is a little difficult in Quebec City, so Alexandra marinates piglets with achiote paste, lemon, lime, and orange to mirror the flavour of sour orange, as well as garlic and spices like anise, cinnamon, and clover.
Once the pig is rubbed down and marinated, it’s rolled up in banana leaves and cooked overnight. The result is tender juicy meat with pops of flavour. The dish arrives on the table with a healthy portion of succulent cochinita pibil surrounded by a butternut squash and habanero purée and small medallions of roasted butternut squash as garnish.
It’s terrific, truly. Traditionally cochinita pibil is served with a habanero and onion salsa, but Canadian palettes are generally not accustomed to this level of spice, so Alexandra’s butternut squash and habanero purée is a tasty compromise.
For dessert is Alexandra’s great-grandmother’s (she’s a Texan! Did I mention I’ve also lived in Texas? haha) pumpkin pie served as individual tarts topped with sweetgrass whipped cream. A lovely dessert for a late fall evening.
The Verre Pickl’ Experience
Verre Pickl’s shared table experience creates an intimate dinner party-like atmosphere. Groups of 12-16 people can book the entire restaurant for a private dining experience, but the true magic happens when strangers are seated around the table.
“You never know what type of ambiance you will get, that’s what’s so exciting about it. If our clients are open to experiencing a shared table it always works. People find common ground between each other and end up learning more about others sitting next to them. For me, it’s a back-to-basics experience: food is sharing, food is love; so sharing a meal with strangers reminds us of our humanity and of how we are all equal”, says Alexandra.
When I dined at Verre Pickl’ I was a solo diner among couples and friends from Quebec, Chicago, New Hampshire, and Boston. French speakers at one end, anglophones on the other, and a bilingual couple in the middle. Multiple conversations flowed throughout dinner: things seen in Quebec City and restaurants visited; some shared photos of the Northern Lights, and others made plans to meet up back home.
One of the bilingual diners spoke of Quebec history and culture, answered questions, and when dessert was served with birthday candles for two anglophone diners, the Quebecers sang ‘Gens du pays’.
Dine at Verre Pickl’
When it comes to pushing boundaries, serving modern Mexican cuisine, and introducing Quebec diners to authentic Mexican flavours, Jérôme is Alexandra’s biggest champion. Thank God for that, because when I miss Mexico, I now have a place close to home that will satisfy my cravings.
Reservations for Verre Pickl’ quickly fill, but if your dates are flexible, message the restaurant and they will find a date to fit you in. Alexandra handles the reservations personally, curating seating arrangements to encourage conversations between diners throughout the meal.
It is honestly like going to a dinner party where you know, maybe, one person, but leave feeling like you have new friends.
It’s fairly evident that I loved my meal and dining experience at Verre Pickl’. I love what chefs Alexandra and Jérôme are doing (it’s just the two of them, no other staff), and I’m excited to go back and savour more of their creations. The marriage of Mexican, French, and Quebec flavours is unique, and it’s my hope that Alexandra will keep pushing us to experience more of the traditions and foods of Mexico – including the spicy bits!
Verre Pickl’ serves a 5-course tasting menu for 98 CAD, wine pairings and cocktails are extra and highly recommended. If you have dietary restrictions, let them know when you make a reservation.
Address: 1314 avenue Maguire • 581-748-8750 • verrepickl.ca • 5-Course Tasting Menu: 98 CAD • Reservations required • Tipping culture in Quebec is 15% to 25%
[If you’re unable to go, be courteous and cancel instead of being a no-show.]
