Last Updated on June 30, 2026 by Pamela MacNaughtan
I’m sitting at a red picnic table, blue skies overhead dotted with fluffy white clouds and the sound of birds in the distance. It’s a little after 5 pm, and I’m marvelling at the calmness and peace I feel at Hotel and Spa Le Germain Charlevoix in Baie-Saint-Paul, Quebec.
Surrounded by the Laurentian Mountains, the hotel is a rural oasis on the edge of Baie-Saint-Paul. Modern architecture pays homage to the Petites Franciscaines de Marie (circa 1939) farm, Ferme Filbaie, that once stood here. It’s more than just beautiful buildings with tall windows that bathe the interiors in sunlight; it’s gourmet meals made with foodstuffs from the hotel’s farm, tranquil nights under the stars, and relaxation in the spa. In summer, Sundays are for BBQs and walks in Jardins de Francois – which connects the hotel and the town.
LETTING GO, AND GETTING LOST
When I returned to Quebec City after caring for my mom for the last five months of her life, I threw myself back into work to keep myself busy and distracted. Both of my parents are gone now, and trying to wrap my head around that is hard and will be for a long time. It has also reinforced the need to safeguard my emotional and physical wellness.
I booked a room in the Le Clos building, one of five accommodation buildings at the hotel. The rooms are small, with a modern farmhouse vibe, a cozy four-poster bed, a glass-enclosed shower with great water pressure, and views of the farm’s alpacas and Highland coos (cows). A homey escape on a weekend when the forecast was rain, rain, and more rain.
Letting go of my stress and getting lost in the peacefulness of Hotel and Spa Le Germain Charlevoix was my only plan. Everything I need or want is here: restaurants, communal spaces where I can write, a small shop for snacks, intriguing art, and a community garden connecting the hotel and the town of Baie-Saint-Paul.
DINING
Between the hotel’s two restaurants and an anniversary event at Les Viandes Bio de Charlevoix (known for its charcuterie, chicken, and pork products), I had enough food options to hunker down until check-out three days later.
I approached my stay thinking of it as a vacation, not as a writing assignment where I would need to explore everything in the hotel and then go out and peek into the local food scene in Baie-Saint-Paul; securing restaurant reservations, wandering down streets looking for cool spaces to recommend, eating way too much, and barely sleeping.
The vacay vibe was, honestly, intoxicating. The hotel is in Baie-Saint-Paul; it’s a little over an hour’s drive from Quebec City. I can come back at any time.
It took less than 24 hours for me to fill the small fridge in my room with an obscene amount of charcuterie from Les Viandes Bio de Charlevoix – and then I added cheese and a huge bag of cherries, rosé from Vignoble Pigeon Hill and rhubarb beer from Brasserie La Ferme (both from the Eastern Townships).
Hotel snacks are essential. I cannot stay in a hotel without snacks, and when my plethora of Quebec terroir was feeling not enough (shocking, I know), I rocked up to the little food shop in the hotel lobby; I need hits of Diet Coke at times, and they had different cheeses, mushroom salt (hello, new food souvenir), and candy and drinks.
Le Bercail
Wood-fired pizza, local cheese and charcuterie, healthy salads, and tartare are a few of the comforting foods you’ll spot on the menu at the hotel’s lobby lounge and casual dining restaurant, Le Bercail.
Two visits to the restaurant, while delicious, were not enough to try all of the dishes I was curious about – the one downside to travelling solo and not having someone to share food with. I ordered a Margherita pizza while waiting for my room to be ready, only to be surprised by the medium-sized pizza placed in front of me. I drizzled the top with a smoky spicy oil by Le Germain, and folded each slice as best I could, without getting too messy.
Dinner on my last night began with a board of Quebec cheese from Laiterie Charlevoix and La Famille Migneron, and charcuterie from Les Viandes Bio de Charlevoix, followed by an entrée of salmon tartare, and pouding chômeur swimming in a divinely rich caramel maple sauce for dessert. It’s not the traditional dense sticky cake but a thick piece of brioche, adding to the richness of the dessert.
Les Labours
The breakfast buffet at Les Labours is extensive, with a large selection of fruits and cereals, cheese, charcuteries, eggs done several ways, crispy bacon, home fries, smoked salmon, and more!
Breakfast is good, but dinner is where Les Labours truly shines.
The evening began with the tarte limette cocktail (coconut milk, lime juice, egg white, and rhum) – which had me thinking Olaf from Frozen had a very bad, nasty day. It is, frankly, my new favourite cocktail, complemented with a half dozen fresh oysters. Next was a torchon of foie gras with a brûlée-type crust on the top, served with toasted brioche. My main dish was a Koji-aged beef striploin with a fat tempura shrimp, sitting in a green peppercorn cognac sauce.
I was completely sated, but at the mention of a berry pavlova for dessert, I found room – a scrumptious decision, I must say.
RELAX
Le Germain hotels are known for beautiful, cozy, and functional common spaces, and Hotel and Spa Le Germain Charlevoix is no different. There’s a sprawling lawn with red picnic tables and a BBQ for Sunday lunches; an outdoor pool and thermal spa; and a fully functional farm.
Rainy mornings gave way to afternoons of blue skies peppered with fluffy white clouds. My mornings began by shaking the curtains away from the patio door, allowing the dawn to spread slowly across the room. I lounged in bed longer than usual, enjoying the sound of birds outside my window and the occasional conversation among the cows.
I didn’t write much in the morning, and to be honest, I didn’t write much in the afternoons either. I did, however, lounge at one of the red picnic tables when the sun came out; people-watching, reading, wandering around Jardin de François, and snapping photos.
[I originally planned to spend time at the spa on both days, but I was unwell and not able to go. I will definitely have spa time next time!]
STAY
I feel like I unlocked a new holiday version of myself during my stay at Hotel and Spa Le Germain Charlevoix, which is unexpected and delightful. Never, in my life, have I packed three pairs of shoes for a 3-night stay, or selected wine from my cabinet at home to match the potential mood at a hotel.
I’m a wash-and-go girl; I throw things in a bag, walk out the door, and when things go wrong (and they will), I scramble to figure it out. This time, though, I was mindful of things like weather, dining only at the hotel, and the clothing I wanted to wear while relaxing, writing, and commiserating with cows. This wasn’t a work trip; it was a much-needed getaway.
No matter the season, Hotel and Spa Le Germain Charlevoix is one of my favourite destination hotels near Quebec City. Honestly, I have been a lover of Le Germain properties for over 10 years. I’ve stayed with them in Charlevoix, St John’s, Halifax, Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Winnipeg, Saskatoon, and Calgary. While the locations are different, some things are always the same: beds that beg you to snuggle up for a day, great water pressure, knowledgeable and fun staff, and showcasing Canadian designers, art, and producers throughout.
When booking, compare with Stay22 and the hotel’s booking page – which has some fabulous promotions throughout the year.
Don’t have a car? Take the Train de Charlevoix directly to the hotel. It’s a gorgeous way to travel from Quebec City to Baie-Saint-Paul – especially in autumn!
Distinctions: 1-Key Michelin Hotel
Destination: Charlevoix
Address: 50, rue de la Ferme, Baie-Saint-Paul
Budget: 259/night, and up
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